What is Scalp scaling?

Everyone will have a touch of flakes on the scalp once a while as a result of dead skin. However, the excessive shedding and build up of dead may give the scalp a scaly appearance and if unattended, it may lead to persistent itching and scratching. This can be quite annoying, frustrating, uncomfortable and embarrassing as the flakes become visible on the scalp and hair.

This phenomenon can be associated with a few common skin conditions or irritations that affect the scalp leading to reactions by producing dry or oily/greasy scales or flakes and crusty sores. This depends on the root cause of the inflammation which could be internal or external to the sufferer.

What causes scalp scaling and flakes?

Cradle cap – This mostly affects newborns. A common symptom is a greasy scalp with yellowish flakes that may spread to parts of the face and eyebrows.

Dry scalp – A dry scalp tends to be itchy and may flake as a result. The causes of a dry scalp are mostly environmental ranging namely cold winters, shampooing too much, shampooing too little, scalp sensitivity to harsh hair products like chemicals, gels, hairsprays and dyes, use of alkaline soaps or alcohol based shampoos, as well as excessive heat from dryers.   

Scalp psoriasis – This can be identified by red and white small powdery (thick if severe) plaques on the scalp that may spread to the forehead, ears and neck. They tend to be itchy and painful and may lead to temporary hair loss on the affected areas.   

Dandruff – Dying and flaking off of skin cells from the scalp is normal but sometimes, if the shedding and build up is excessive due to internal or environmental causes, it tends to give the scalp a scaly appearance leading to irritation. It can be identified by dry, fine flaky skin on the scalp. Most people will simply complain of white/grayish flakes on their shoulders which are mostly noticeable on dark clothing.

Seborrhoeic dermatitis/ eczema – this is dandruff accompanied by inflammation particularly affecting the sebum gland rich areas of skin. It may extend from the scalp to other areas like eyebrows and folds of the nose with possible redness and itching which may be worsened by stress, allergies, hormonal imbalances, poor diet and immuno-suppression. The flakes can be yellow, white or grayish and if left untreated, can lead to hair loss.

Head lice – Head lice mostly cause irritation and itching of the scalp but scratching can lead to crusting and scaling of the scalp. They are usually confined to the scalp, especially the occipital and post-auricular regions and diagnosis is by identification of the lice as they are visible with naked eyes.

Tinea Capitis – Commonly known as ringworms, this is an infectious fungal infection that affects the skin. Symptoms of scalp ringworm are a flaky, circular patch of baldness which could have a rash and itch.

This blog is aimed at providing suggestions of the common scalp conditions that cause scaling and is not a replacement to physician advice. It is important to contact a physician for all medical problems.  

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Caring for a Sensitive/problematic skin

This type of skin is very sensitive to environmental factors; it burns easily in the sun and is easily irritated by mainstream cleansers and perfumed cosmetics. Typical reactions include itching, burning, excessive dryness, peeling, chaffing and stinging. It could be dry, oily, combination or acne prone. To know your specific type of skin, refer to our previous article know your skin type.

To care for this type of skin, avoid alcohol based, petroleum based, perfumed products or products with artificial colors. Avoid touching the face unnecessarily, and whenever you have to do it, clean/sanitize the hands first.

Cleanse the skin twice daily with a nonabrasive cleanser. Opt for a gentle, glycerin based, pH balanced, non comedogenic cleanser that does not clog pores. Use only as much quantity as needed; not too much, not too little. Use warm water to cleanse, not hot or cold. To open up clogged pores, you could dab a slightly cooled hot clean washcloth on the face.

Exfoliate with a gentle non abrasive facial scrub that will not clog pores twice or thrice a week, depending on the condition of the skin. If skin irritation occurs, stop. Avoid scrubbing the skin when it is irritated. Use a clay or moisturizing mask once or twice a week, depending on your specific skin type and the condition of your skin.

To tone the skin, opt for water based toners that do not list alcohol based ingredients. If you have to use a salicylic or acne solution to deal with small white heads/break outs, dab it on the area with a cotton ball, do not rub.

To moisturize, opt for an oil free, non scented, water based light moisturizer. You can also opt for 100% organic vitamin E moisturizer that will not clog your pores. Always protect your skin with a non comedogenic sunscreen lotion with an SPF of at least 15 before going outdoors.  

Finally, eat a healthy and balanced diet. Eat foods rich in antioxidants, essential oils, minerals, fibre and vitamins and maintain a high consumption of water to keep your skin healthy and hydrated. If you experience an unexpected or a sporadic skin reaction, consult a dermatologist to prescribe treatment to control it. 

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Caring for an oily skin

Caring for oily skin tends to be challenging for some people but it should not as oil production by the skin is a natural process carried out by a series of glands located in the dermis or middle layer of the skin of mammals called sebaceous glands. These glands are distributed over the entire body with the exception of the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet and are most abundant on the scalp and face. The sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles and release an oily substance called sebum into the follicular duct and hence to the surface of the skin. Sebum helps keep the skin moist and is protective to the skin. But for some people, the glands produce too much of these oils (sebum), leading to a much dreaded skin type. This skin type is most common with teenagers due to high hormone production. But some adults also have this type of skin. To know if you have this skin type, refer to our previous post ‘Know your skin type’.  

Most people with oily skin react by stripping away the excess oil with harsh soaps and facial washes as they feel they clog the pores leading to break outs and giving the skin a sheen and that greasy look. It is important to note that these oils, although they cause complexion problems, they act as the skin's natural moisturizer. They therefore, only need to be controlled. By stripping them away, the sebaceous glands instinctively replenish the lost oils and one ends up creating a bigger problem as the skin becomes very sensitive. Caring for this skin means keeping the pores open to avoid build up of dead cells, dirt and bacteria that will clog and infect the pores causing acne.

Cleanse twice daily with warm water (not hot water) and a gentle facial cleanser. Look for a cleanser meant for oily skin to help keep the pores clear and lift impurities without irritating and drying out the skin. Follow with a water based toner that does not list alcohol based ingredients. Alcohol tends to be astringent and strips off moisture from the skin.

Exfoliate the skin one to two times a week with a non abrasive facial scrub. This depends on the condition of your skin. Avoid scrubbing when you have a break out not to spread it. Using a facial mask is also recommended one to two times a week to cleanse deep down into your pores. This again depends on the sensitivity of your skin. A clay mask is most suitable as it is oil free.

Use oil free, water based, non greasy and non comedogenic moisturizers meant for oily skin to hydrate your skin without clogging the pores. Sun protection lotions and make ups should also be oil free.  Always remember you are what you eat; watch a healthy and balanced diet. Eat foods rich in antioxidants, essential oils, minerals, fibre and vitamins and maintain a high consumption of water to keep your skin healthy and hydrated. 

Your efforts to keep your oily skin clear can only go so far and you may experience sporadic acne breakouts. You should consult a dermatologist to prescribe an acne treatment lotion or salicylic solution to control it.  

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What is Tamanu oil?

Tamanu oil, also known as Foraha oil, is a product of the Tamanu tree (Calophyllum Inophyllum) which is native to the islands of Tahiti and Madagascar but also found in other tropical areas. It has been used by indigenous communities for centuries and elicited a lot of interest from scientists as early as 1918 for its unique benefits to the skin. The Tamanu tree grows wild and upto between 8 to 20 metres high and blooms twice annually with fragrant, small white flowers. These flowers eventually yield to clusters of about 4 to 5 yellow, round, edible fruits about the size of apricots. Harvesting of the fruits involves collecting mature fruits after they drop to the ground and cracking them open mechanically. Within the fruit’s thin pulp lies a large nut that contain kernel. The kernels contain no visible oil and have to be dried in the sun for at least a month until they turn chocolate brown and become sticky with dark, thick, pleasant smelling oil. The longer they are dried, the better as they tend to give more oil usually upto around two months. The kernels are then cold-pressed to produce a dark green oil with a rich, deep scent called tamanu oil. It takes large amounts of tamanu fruit to yield just a few litres of tamanu oil which makes it rare and expensive.

Tamanu oil is a remarkable topical healing agent with scar healing, antibiotic, antioxidant, anti-neuralgic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Due to its anti-oxidant, antimicrobial and anti-bacterial quality, it provides a solution to many skin problems from aging, blemishes, acne, shingles, eczema, herpes, rosacea to rashes with no side effects as it is 100% raw and organic. Applied to wounds, cuts, burns, insect bites and stings, it accelerates healing by promoting formation of new tissue and growth of blemish-free healthy skin. It is known to improve skin appearance by reducing visible scars, improving skin elasticity, firmness and smoothness hence works well on scars and stretch marks. Its anti-inflammatory and analgesic qualities helps rid the body of pain extremely fast and is hence beneficial in cases of neuralgia, sciatica, shingles, rheumatism, sprains, pulled muscles and ligament damage.

Tamanu oil is easily absorbed by the skin, it is non greasy and will not clog your pores. It can be used directly on the skin or diluted with a carrier oil. Its pleasant aroma and silky texture makes it ideal for use in creams, lotions, ointments, and other cosmetic products. SliceofNature stocks tamanu oil from Madagascar which is rare and favored by aroma therapists because it is typically purer and more aromatic. 

Caring for a combination skin

If you have a combination skin, the central part of the face (T-zone); the forehead, nose and chin may be oily, while other parts, like the cheeks and the delicate skin under the eyes, can be dry or normal. In other words, it is a combination that is characterized as normal and oily skin or, oily and dry skin. Exactly which areas are affected most often changes with age; like for example adolescents find their foreheads and noses a problem, which is linked to hormones, whereas older women find chins some times breaking out, most often linked to increased stress levels.

Caring for combination skin is therefore a delicate balancing act as it involves tackling the problem on one area of the face without harming the skin on the other areas. You don't want to over-moisturize the oily areas and you don't want to apply products formulated for oily skin to the dry skin and end up with a skin that feels tight, dry or scaly, especially around the eyes and mouth. With this type of skin, you may therefore require a little more time for the care regimen, but it will be well worth your time and effort since you will achieve a healthy looking and glowing skin.

The first step is cleansing. Cleanse twice daily with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser for combination skin. Avoid using hard water, soap or harsh cleansers formulated for oily skin or milky cleansers formulated for dry skin and instead use a moisturizing cleansing bar or facial wash. The foaming action strips the oil on the oily skin without dehydrating the dry areas on the cheeks at the same time.

Exfoliate periodically, using a gentle scrub, say twice or thrice a week to keep the skin looking fresh and radiant. Exfoliating reduces the dry flakes of skin from the dry areas on the cheeks that stick on the oily areas causing blockage of pores. To loosen blackheads, you can use pore strips. These are little sticky pads which you place over the blocked pores and then pull off. They are perfect for combination skins as they allow you to focus your treatment on the affected area (oily areas). To start, use the strips every day for three days, then, reduce to once a week.

Follow with a water-based or glycerin-based toner to help remove remaining residue as well as spread the excess oil in oily areas to the dry areas of your face. Avoid astringent toners, alcohol based toners and cleansing lotions as they strip off the moisture on your skin. These can be very harsh for combination skins.

The use of a facial mask is recommended at least once a week. Combination skin may require the use of two different masks to adequately meet your skin's needs. Start with a clay mask on the T-zone, it should feel tight as it dries. Wait for a few minutes and rinse it off with warm water. Follow with a moisturizing mask on the drier areas. Wait for around 5 minutes then rinse it off with warm water.

Finally, moisturize your skin. For an oily-normal combination, you need to keep it hydrated, but dry in the areas prone to excessive oil. Choose water-based moisturizers for this as opposed to oil-based ones, making sure to apply sparingly to oil-prone areas. For an oily-dry combination, use emollient-based moisturizers on the dry areas to keep the skin feeling fresh. You may need a heavier moisturizer for the eyes but be sure to keep it off the T-zone.

You can now apply your make up. If you choose to use a liquid foundation, try to find one that is made especially for combination skin, to better manage the oily and dry areas of your skin. Do not forget to apply a sunscreen at all times when going outdoors. Try to shop for foundations and powders that double up as make-up and sunscreen to make your life easier. Remember you are what you eat. Watch a healthy and balanced diet. Eat foods rich in antioxidants, essential oils, minerals, fibre and vitamins. Maintain high consumption of water to keep your skin healthy and hydrated. 

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